Proving that the art of postcard writing is not dead…

Postcard from BanffPostcard from Banff
I still can’t quite get over the magnificence of the Rockies, and get my thoughts and impressions into coherent sentences. In the meantime here is a postcard.

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Prince Rupert to Jasper, finally heading east

We were incredibly lucky with the weather throughout our time in Prince Rupert. It rains, on average, 288 days of the year and on the morning of our departure we got to witness exactly what nature is capable of up here. I was so glad we were train bound, and not boarding a boat!
 
From Prince Rupert to Jasper
 
It was still dark when we pulled out of the station at 8am, and we travelled for the first hour through the eerie, misty gloom. Everything was blue. Dark, looming mountains, capped with clouds rose up from the steel coloured lakes and rivers beneath. It was definitely winter here, and skeletal trees stood sentry on the side of the railway line, the silver bark shining in the mist.
 
From Prince Rupert to Jasper
 
Our first railway journey was a two day epic from Prince Rupert on the northern coast of BC to Jasper in the Rocky Mountains. We travelled inland moving gradually south-east through sparsely populated valleys alongside rivers and lakes. As the day wore on, the blue gave way to the greens and browns more familiar to us in late autumn. Brown ferns dominated the embankment beside the tracks and evergreen trees stood tall all around us.
 
From Prince Rupert to Jasper
From Prince Rupert to Jasper
 
On the second day we could see signs that the temperature had dropped. Although skies were now bright blue, there was frost on the ground into the late morning and small lakes were frozen. By lunchtime the mountains were snowcapped and getting gradually higher, and the rivers had changed to turquoise, it was clear we were nearly in the Rockies. 
 
From Prince Rupert to Jasper

From Prince Rupert to Jasper

From Prince Rupert to Jasper
More pictures of the journey are on flickr.

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Prince Rupert

Situated at the end of the Canadian train line and at the foot of the BC border with Alaska Prince Rupert feels incredibly isolated. It might also be because regardless of how you arrive, or where you’re coming from, it takes an incredibly long time to get there.
 
Prince Rupert

Prince Rupert
 
On our first morning we took a walk around the town to get our bearings and stumbled across a carver working in an open workshop. He invited us in to have a nosy around which was fascinating. We met two women who were painting traditional style pieces in the room at the back of the shop and got to fill our noses with the smell of freshly sawn wood. The carver also took the time to tell us about the piece he was working on, and some of the history behind carving totem poles and about marketing them to the current art collector market.
 
Prince Rupert

Prince Rupert
 
Before we left Vancouver I asked everyone I came across for suggestions of things to do and places to visit in all of our destinations. For Prince Rupert we received one suggestion, to try the chowder at the Crest hotel and enjoy the view across the bay from the window. We plumped for the fisherman’s chowder (we had three options to choose from) and it was properly amazing. Creamy, delicious, warming and filling. And the view was pretty spectacular too.
 
Prince Rupert
 
We also visited the museum of Northern British Columbia. It was an interesting museum, with lots of wonderful First Nations and Pioneer artefacts, but an overwhelming amount of written information crammed on to several interpretation boards, which at times used some really small text. The boards were slightly disconnected from the artefacts, which was kind of disappointing as I would have liked to have known more about the individual objects.
 
Prince Rupert

Prince Rupert on Wide Angle Wanderings
Other highlights from our couple of days are centred around the Hallowe’en festivities. I saw a giraffe and a pumpkin have a lively conversation in a hotel lobby, two witches on a cigarette break and the Tin Man and Garfield wandering around town. We also managed to track down the firework display which was really pretty spectacular.
 
Prince Rupert

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Travelling the Inside Passage

Inside Passage

We travelled from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert on a ferry through the Inside Passage. The ferries that make this journey are huge and during the summer they are apparently teeming with people. This is not the case in October. Our ferry was eerily quiet throughout the whole journey, you could go for a walk to stretch your legs, or admire the view from the other side of the ship and see only two or three other people. It was really nice though, because the journey is so long (21 hours in fact) we developed a sense of community. Everyone greeted one another each time we met and swapped travel stories and destination plans.
 
Inside Passage

Inside Passage
 
It was dark when we began our journey and after embarking everyone found their own quiet spot and hunkered down to try and get a few more hours of sleep . When we awoke, we were in the passage and it was as if we had entered a whole other world. The sea was calm and the sun was just breaking through the clouds. All we could see in every direction was sea and tree covered mountains on either side of us.
 
Inside Passage

Inside Passage
 
The whole journey was completely magical. With each stop the ferry got quieter and the small communities scattered along the coastline thinned out, until we had seen no other signs of civilization in hours. Gradually the channel narrowed and the mountains began to really tower above us, and despite the size of the boat it made me feel really small and insignificant.
Inside Passage

Inside Passage
 
We disembarked in Prince Rupert in the middle of the night, by which time we had perfected the art of sleeping on a cold hard floor and of sitting, staring out of a window. This is going to prove useful as we continue our journey.
 
Inside Passage

Inside Passage

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Nanaimo to Port Hardy

I’m writing this from a lovely hotel room on the marina at Port Hardy. We have a great view from our room that overlooks the bay and we can see small fishing boats moored up in the marina below. We just had dinner in a very friendly local pub, where the server knew almost everyone’s name and order. We weren’t really supposed to be here though. We should have been on a ferry that left Port Hardy this afternoon, except that because of bad weather earlier in the week our ferry got stuck up north and our sailing has been delayed until tomorrow morning. So, ‘yeay’ to unexpected nice hotel rooms. They’re not going to happen often on this trip! And here’s hoping the bad weather up north has passed and it will be smooth sailing for us tomorrow.

We spent the last two days driving up Vancouver Island. It wasn’t a huge distance, but we wanted to take our time and enjoy some of the sights along the way. So far it’s been amazing. We left Nanaimo fairly quickly – we’ve spent time there before. We had a quick stop at Rathtravor beach, because I couldn’t pass it without another look, and headed north to as yet unexplored territory, and hopefully away from the rain.

Rathtravor trees

Rathtravor wood

Campbell River had an amazing museum with interesting displays about the local First Nations community, including some really beautiful carved masks currently on loan. There were also exhibitions about the history of local industries, logging, fishing and canning salmon, and replicas of floating houses that families lived in, moving up and down the coast in depending on where they were working.

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Us on Miracle beach

As we drove further north the towns thinned out and the traffic disappeared almost completely. We gradually turned inland away from the coast and were treated to some beautiful views of lakes and mountains; all looking rather sinister as the low lying cloud struggled to dissipate.

Vancouver Island on wide angle wanderings

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On Saturday afternoon we stopped in the small settlement of Telegraph Cove. Just south of Port Hardy this place is a tourist hub in the summer so it was interesting to see it in the off season when we had the whole place to ourselves. Most of the buildings here are built on stilts and sit above the water. The houses are painted dark green and red, and these shades complimented the autumnal trees and skies that sat above them and the steel grey of the water below, so I couldn’t help but take lots of photographs.

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Telegraph Cove Vancouver Island on wide angle wanderings

Now I’m off for a sleep, our ferry tomorrow leaves at 6am.Trees on Vancouver Island on wide angle wanderings

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For more pictures of the journey so far, check out my flickr set.

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