Winnipeg, or Winterpeg if you will

Winnipeg

Winnipeg
When we mentioned to people we were planning on stopping in Winnipeg for a couple of days, to visit another Canadian city and avoid spending 60 hours straight on a train people looked at us like we were mad. In fact, even our host upon our arrival asked us why we were there and then referred to his home city as the armpit of Canada.

Here are some fun facts about Winnipeg:

  • It is situated almost on the geographic centre of North America
  • It has a climate that most resembles the climate experienced in the Northern Territories

I actually quite enjoyed our time in Winnipeg, despite everyone’s derision and the chilling temperatures.

Winnipeg

We spent the best part of a day in the fantastic Winnipeg Art Gallery. It was amazing. There was a fascinating visiting exhibition of work by William Kurelek. He grew up on the Manitoban prairies and it was great to be able to compare his images with those we held in our minds from our journey the day before. His later work takes a more macabre approach, showing imagery of a world gripped by nuclear war. You can see some of his work here if you are interested.

http://kurelek.ca/ Also showing was an exhibition about food and art from the galleries archive as well as some beautiful Inuit carvings.

Winnipeg

In Winnipeg we spent time wandering in the Exchange district and around Oswald Village, where we were staying. Both areas had a great sense of community. The Exchange District has clearly undergone some major recent gentrification, has vestiges of great typography on lots of the walls, and some beautiful, ornate, colourful buildings.

Winnipeg

We also visited the Manitoba Museum. The Museum was great, albeit huge: it looks at the history of Manitoba from the beginning of time. Unfortunately, despite my love of museums, by the time we got the the Hudson’s Bay exhibition, complete with replica ship and the more recent history of the settlers, which were the sections I was most interested in, I had rather run out of steam.

Winnipeg on Wide angle wanderings

We finished our trip to Winnipeg with poutine. A Canadian National dish, poutine is made up of chips (or fries) served with gravy and cheese curds. It’s disgusting, but delicious.

Winnipeg
Disclaimer – between the two of us, we did not finish this.

 

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Rail Roading

Winnipeg to Toronto

I’m only going to write one post about our two epic railway journeys for a number of reasons.

  1. The scenery only changed once over the course of three whole days.
  2. I only took a small handful of pictures, for rationale see point 1
  3. Mainly I read my book and slept and I’m never writing about another book ever again (well at least not quite yet)
  4. I’m quite behind on posting and this seems like a lazy way to play catch up.

Travelling from Jasper to Winnipeg

We travelled from Jasper to Winnipeg and then Winnipeg to Toronto by train. This is a long way. Our first leg from Jasper to Winnipeg took 26 hours and our second leg from Winnipeg to Toronto took 35!

Winnipeg to Toronto

We did though have the luxury of sleeping in a bed on the train. I swear this trip was arranged by the Victorian inside of me. Beds on trains and never going outside without a hat or gloves, yup the Victorian approves. The beds on trains are kind of fun, during the day the bottom bunk acts as seats and the top bunk folds into the wall, after dinner one of the train stewards makes up the beds and even folds down the sheets for you. It’s all very civilized. The beds are also really big: I was initially sceptical, believing I would be sleeping on a plank and spending the night trying not to fall out, but it was quite big enough for Mike and I to both fit in to watch a film in the evening and there was even a curtain which made the whole thing feel rather like camping.
 
Travelling from Jasper to Winnipeg
 
The dining experience was also worth noting. Not dissimilar to being on a plane passengers are fed a little and often. We had three course meals at lunch and at dinner and a cooked breakfast every morning, I was beginning to wonder if I was going to step or roll off the train at the end of the journey.
 
Travelling from Jasper to Winnipeg
 

Being on a train for more than a day at a time really does encourage conversation amongst the passengers. Those not in economy (ie us and those who had paid mega bucks for a cabin) had access to the park car, a.k.a the social lounge, where drinks and canapes were served to you in your seat, and also to the dome car which was up a small flight of stairs and had large windows and a glass roof. As mentioned previously, the scenery on these train legs was impressive for it’s consistency, rather than it’s striking natural beauty. Consequently we didn’t spend huge stretches of time up here, as it was also slightly chilly.
 
Travelling from Jasper to Winnipeg
 

So at the end of 61 hours on a train what did I learn?

  1. The prairies are very very flat
  2. I reach my small talk limit at around 50 hours
  3. Sleeping on trains is greatly improved by sleeping tablets or whisky
  4. Northern Ontario is full of trees
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Banff

MJG_9219

The Rockies

The Rockies

MJG_9527_a

Our visit to Banff coincided with the Mountain festival, which is a week long series of talks, films and events dedicated to all things adventurous and mountainous. Being the overly organised individual that I am, I had bought tickets in advance for the Saturday night talk and screenings. I’m so glad I did.

We heard Sarah McNair-Landry speak which was awe inspiring. This 25 year old woman became the youngest person to ski to the South Pole when she was 18, she has crossed the Gobi dessert in a kite buggy and led expeditions to the North Pole. Most recently she and her brother kite skied and hiked over 3,000km across the North West Passage. She talked about meeting the communities along the way, and about making difficult decisions that involve enormous detours and being woken up by polar bears.

The three films included free-skiing in Kashmir, an eight woman commonwealth team’s trip to the South Pole and a fascinating look at a couple’s relationship as they climbed the largest sea cliffs in the world in Greenland. 

There are some more pictures from the Rockies on flickr if you haven’t seen enough yet!

 

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Lake Louise

I don’t really know what I was expecting from Lake Louise, but it wasn’t this: minus 21 degrees, trees wearing snow blankets and a powder blue glacier. 
The Rockies

The Rockies

The Rockies

The Rockies

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The Icefields Parkway

We knew that to really get to experience the Rockies we would need to get out of Jasper, but given that it was early November we didn’t know if we would be able to drive the aptly named Icefields parkway. We took a chance and decided that if the weather permitted it, we would go and stay in Lake Louise and Banff. Well, lucky for us mother nature was on our side; sunshine was forecast for the duration of our stay, so we were off. The sunshine was particularly welcome as it made the frost sparkle and the occasional flurries of snow look like glitter falling from the sky. I feel like I’ve just spent five days in a winter wonderland.

The Rockies

The Parkway stretches just less than 150 miles and connects Jasper with Lake Louise. It winds through two national parks and lets travellers journey into a wilderness of mountain lakes, glaciers and broad sweeping valleys all set against the backdrop of jaw-droppingly beautiful, enormous mountains.

The Rockies

We stopped frequently along the way: sometimes to take short walks, but more often just to enjoy the majesty of our surroundings. At one stop we walked to the spectacular Athabasca Falls, where turquoise water rushes over stacked rocks with alarming violence and urgency but calms almost immediately upon reaching the pools. 

The Rockies



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